Summer Cruise: 2012 Lopez to Sucia to Home

After church, we were still waiting for the tide to lower then start to rise. We had originally planned on leaving around 1300 as the current would then be in our favor for the rest of the trip. This would have worked perfectly with the 11:00 worship service, but since the worship service was at 9:00, we now had some time to kill. So we took our time getting organized, hoisting PIPPI and LONGSTOCKING aboard, and putting things away. Then it was up anchor, motor around CLOUD GIRL to see if David was about and head out of Fisherman Bay. The kids were helpful by relaying from the depth sounder once again, and again we had no problems as we exited. It is GREAT to have crew like ours!

One of the folks who gave us a ride down from the church (we went in two cars) told us they lived in a gray house by the day marker. All the houses looked grey to us, but we waved at all of them just to be sure. Hope they saw us.

We had already made our decision as to which way we were going to go to Sucia. After three times traveling up or down President Channel to the west of Orcas Island with no wind, we were going to try the east side of Orcas and Rosario Straight. Besides, we'd not gone that way before.

Here's our trip visually (just follow the purple yarn from the yellow pencil to the red pencil):

As we came up around Lopez, into Upright Channel and then past Upright Head (which is the ferry terminal for Lopez) there were about three ferries moving through. The problem with ferries is that the bow looks just like the stern. Add to that, the fact that they were swinging around to make the ferry landing, and it took close watching to see where they were all going - let alone which way! Needless to say, we stayed out of their way.

Here's a ferry heading into the terminal at Upright Head, Lopez.

Then on across towards Peavine Pass.

 These two videos give a 360 view and then show us entering Peavine Pass between Obstruction Island and Blakely Island. You'll notice that we are motor sailing under mainsail and staysail.

 Did you notice how fluky the wind became while coming through the pass? We had a slight following breeze (it was coming from the south following Lopez Island) then it switched into a head breeze coming through the pass from Rosario Straight and the east side of Blakely. We were glad to get through. But once through, the wind became steady and from behind us for a very broad reach - almost a run. Great sailing. So we raised the Genoa and dropped the staysail for a romp, hitting 7.4 a couple of times, but mainly saying in the 6 knot range.

We were then faced with a decision to make. Which side of the Peapod Island group to pass on? We decided to stay further out of the traffic lanes (although we saw no shipping) and go between Orcas and the Peapods, as the chart and photo below show.

Up and around the point we sailed, seeing a lug rigged gig way over by Lummi Island. She and her crew were cross in our direction, and looked like they might be headed towards Sucia, too.

We needed to make another decision as we came out from the Peapod Islands and around Orcas Island's Lawrence Point. Which side of Barnes and Clark Islands to pass? A look at the current table showed that the "outside" had more current running in our favor, so that's the way we went. We noticed the gig did, too.

The kids snapped this photo as we passed Clark Island.

Here's the gig. There were about 9 - 11 adults on board. When they saw us coming they started to play around with the blue tarp/ground cloth/sheet to add extra area. As we caught up to them, we yelled across to one another a bit. Then as we sailed pass, they suddenly shouted out "Hip, Hip, MERGANSER!" We were hoping they'd come into Echo Bay on Sucia, but they turned into neighboring Matia Island instead.

It wasn't long afterward and the wind dropped off, although still behind us, as this photo shows.

As we came in there were harbor porpoise feeding. We tried to catch one on film, but were unsuccessful. Then there was a huge splashing and thrashing noise as a huge seal was beating a salmon against the water. We tried to get it on film.

But the wind picked up enough for us to ghost into Echo Bay and anchor under sail. M. took the helm the entire way, learning about jibing (when the main sail goes from one side to the other when running down wind) and down wind sailing in light airs in general. She did a great job and surprised a few adults as they watched her at the helm, Mom standing to the side (but available) and Pop moving forward to drop sails and the anchor. Great job, M.!

Monday found us just lounging. Then the evening was spectacular. Someone in the anchorage started to play her cello while the sun set. What a perfect end to a perfect day!

Tuesday we headed for home.

We sailed off the anchor and tacked out of Echo Bay. When between Matia and Sucia the wind fell then quit. There is a reef just to the Northeast of Sucia, near the entrance of Echo Bay, so J. reluctantly turned the engine on. Did we mention J.. hates to motor? But he admits that he likes the engine more than running up on a reef! Besides, this will help to charge the batteries after a few cloudy days.

But it wasn't long before the picked back up again, the engine silenced, and it was a joy to sail!

On the way E. started a crocheting project.

Here's a video and some pictures of us trundling along. When L. was filming from the foredeck the speed was 5.2 - 5.3 knots.

This chart came in turned "sideways." North is to the Left, South to the Right. Drayton Harbor is in the Upper Left corner, the pencil marking where these photos were taken.

It was about here that I. and then M. went up to the bow. They love to sit on the bowsprit and hang on to the pulpit. It is great to have kids who know how to safely move around on the boat. J. even joined them for awhile. As L. wrote in the Log:

MERGANSER's awesome strength can be felt. She loves to sail.

I. took some wonderful pictures from up here. We'll let her share them on the kids posting.
Way to go, I.!

Up in the fore-peak, E.'s project continues!

We had a lovely sail around Birch Point and into Boundary Bay, where the wind actually held. Usually it dies as we round the point, but on this night, the wind stayed fairly steady, although it did drop, and consequently so did our speed.

We decided to sail all the way into Drayton Harbor before starting the motor, lowering sails, and motoring into our slip. At this point, E. popped his head up - with a HAT on it! Way to go, E.! Nice beret!

We were in our slip by 1955.

Then the clean up began, and the packing! While the cruise came to an end (and we were saddened by it ending), we were excited to be heading across Washington to join the L.'s family in celebrating her parents 45 wedding anniversary! Yeah for them!

[We've sense returned and school has started up - wish to make a quick report that it was an absolute delightful and joyous time!]


What supper kids we have! It is just a joy to share this lifestyle with them. All three are very creative intelligent people who are passionate about a whole lot of life. So here's a "Hip, Hip, Hooray!" from the parents on MERGANSER to our E., I., and M.!

Sumer Cruise: 2012 - Shaw to and at Lopez's Fisherman Bay

We were making a short hop today, but wanted to catch the tide just right - in particular on an incoming tide. That way, if we were to touch bottom, the tide would quickly float us off. Consequently, we didn't leave until mid-morning. That was fine with us, as it gave some time to lay around:

Here is a close up of the chart we had for Fisherman Bay. Notice the Red day marker has a 0 with a little 3 next to it? That means 0 fathoms (a fathom = 6 feet) 3 feet at low tide. We were in a realm of minus tides (of only about a foot or so). The channel is about 1 fathom deep until you are inside, where it goes up to 3 fathoms for a stretch. Most of the Bay is rather shallow (1 fathom, 2-3 feet + whatever the tide might be doing) - as you might be able to make out in the chart photo. MERGANSER draws about 4.5 feet (1.5 feet less than a fathom) - we like to stay with more than 5 feet of water around us, and preferably that under the keel! So, we waited until the tide had risen some, and was continuing up before proceeding towards Fisherman Bay.

(By the way, we anchored about where the "B" in "Bay" is.)

On the way over, we were surprised to see some boats head toward the entrance channel, only to turn around and head in a different direction. One of these was a huge power yacht, which we believe draws less than us.

We weren't too nervous, but we were cautious coming in. Here we go:

 The day marker off our starboard side (Red Right Returning - to harbor).

 Around the first dog leg, looking aft at the second day marker.

 Now looking ahead at the green day markers and the Bay.

You can just hear I. relaying to J. and L. the depths from the depth sounder. The "13" is feet. E. is reading them off to M., who gives them to I. who gives them to the parents in the cockpit. This is what happens when the only display for the depth sounder is down below. Made it in with no problems!

Here is a photograph of us in the Bay and finding a place to anchor between the mooring buoys. It is recommended to anchor on a scope of 3:1 (3 times the depth) for all chain anchor rode. We prefer to anchor on a scope of 4:1. And it was weird to have 40 feet of chain out and have a scope of 4:1. That gives you an idea of how shallow the Bay is. Clear bottle green water.

As J. is putting things away and tiding up, listen to the background noise in the video of the anchorage.

 
No sooner than we had anchored, we watched a fellow from the white Concordia yawl look up, say something to his wife, jump into his dinghy and row over to a mooring ball. A sea plan came in to land, and "taxi" over to the guy in the dinghy and mooring ball. They tie the plane up. The two men rowed back over to the yawl where all three enjoy a late lunch. We hadn't realized that Fisherman Bay had a sea-plane runway over in a really shallow area near the spit.  After lunch, the pilot is rowed back to his plane, taxis out and flies away. Fun to see.

 

It was unbearably hot this day! We even drug out the parents' quilt to lay over the boom to provide more shade. That started to help cool things off. Then adding the wind-scoop to the v-berth hatch got the wind going through the boat. (A wind-scoop is a nylon sail that funnels air down a hatch).

We decided to treat ourselves to a dinner out. Not knowing where Lopez Village was at this point, we rowed North in the Bay to the Marina (you can see the travel lift dock over J.'s shoulder) and beached the boats. Then we walked up and looked into the Marina dining area, decided to skip it and look for something with more local flavor. Which way to walk to the Village? We decided to turn right at the main street and walk back the way we had rowed. About 3/4 of a mile down the road we found a great restaurant! J. had the halibut curry (two thumbs up!); L. had the salmon enchilada (two thumbs up!); the kids had the juicy-drip-down-your-arm bacon and cheese burgers (six thumbs up!). We highly recommend The Galley!

The sun setting over The Galley's dock. Yes, they have a visitor's dock where you can tie up your dinghy, plus what looks like some slip space (not sure if The Galley owns those or not). Can you see MERGANSER in the photo below? She is just visible near the snag. We could have rowed over to The Galley's dock and saved ourselves a walk. Oh, well. That's how it is when exploring a new place! Besides, we would have missed the sign.

 Check out these nasturtiums. The front of the Marina's "lawn" was covered with them. Amazing!

I. & M. ready to row back to MERGANSER after a full meal deal! Believe it or not, but the three of them even had room to share a slice of mudslide mouse cake! Not their parents, too full! While the kids, being kids, strode back to PIPPI and LONGSTOCKING, the parents waddled back.

Earlier in the evening we spoke with David from Cloud Girl. We commented on the way he was keeping his dinghy away from his boat. When we had returned to MERGANSER after dinner we found a note and a book in the cockpit:

"To the young crew of MERGANSER:
- Enjoy the cat & mouse!
- Please return before you sail
- The dinghy material starts on p. 62
David on CLOUD GIRL"

Inside the ziplock bag was David's copy of The Sailor's Sketchbook by Bruce Bingham.

We knew we'd seen his dinghy "Boat Boom" before. We have a copy ourselves.

Yes, Grampa, if you're wondering where your book is, we have it aboard.

So, I. and the J. returned David's copy to him, while E. and M. started looking through our copy.

When talking with David, he loaned us another book: David Seidman's The Complete Sailor: Learning the Art of Sailing (illustrated by Kelly Mulford). Great book! We enjoyed the art work and what is being said enough we found our own copy when we got home. Our copy is a 2nd edition with more illustrations by Jan Adkins. "Why bother having books if you can't loan them out?" David said. Our sentiments exactly.
But we're getting ahead of ourselves.
David had gone out to dinner, too, but down in the Lopez Village. And he explained how to get there and that there were showers for a $2.00 donation to the Chamber of Commerce who had the shower/restrooms building built. A street ends at a set of stairs that lead to a public beach, right by the entrance to the Bay.
When I. and the J. returned to MERGANSER with this good news, it was decided to explore tomorrow! As for tonight, we were ready for bed.

By mid-morning on Friday, 17 August, we were ready for the nice row down the Bay, out the entrance, and to the stairs/street (Post Road) for our exploration of the Village. We detoured around some nice older looks boats (J. can't help himself, and "they were on the way! Thanks crew for being patient.")

 The tide was out when we arrived and we decided to move PIPPI and LONGSTOCKING up to the stairs, not knowing how long we were going to be gone.
We had a great time exploring the Village - and taking showers! Oh, so lovely of Lopez to provide this great luxury!

A quick note: Yes, we do bathe on board, but when you have to haul your own water, you tend to be mindful of it. So nothing beats standing under a shower and knowing you didn't have to haul the water to take it!

 Some of our spoils: Bread from Holly's Bakery, cheese and sausage from MERGANSER and fruit from Blossom Grocery (a local co-op). Yummy picnic!

 I., J. and M.'s legs.

 E. happy for lunch!

 M., E. and I.

 And here are the kids in front of the Library. We went in, of course, and stayed for a couple of hours. Books! Air-conditioning! Free Wi-Fi! Books! and did we say, Books?

Then we walked a different way back to the Village. We explored a stationary story (Scissors, Paper on the Rock) where we were started to see a guy who looked just like J.'s brother! Wow! It wasn't his brother, however. Then we crossed the street to the Red Apple Grocery store. We wanted to see what they had, as we were getting short of supplies. Of course the only thing we really needed was coffee, and that's the only thing we bought. M. liked one of the T-shirts, however, we decided to see what the Farmer's Market had the following day.
While in the grocery store, a grandmother asked J. if he could reach a bottle of 2 L Diet Coke from the top shelf.
"This is how I meet the cutest guys," she winked at L.
She pointed to the one that was knocked over.
"Do you want another one?"
"Oh, no. I knocked that one over. I'm not opening it," she said as she started to walk away. "My grandson is. They say they don't get this stuff at home."

We are now officially on to you, grandparents!

And then, the Just Heavenly Fudge shop where the kids got ice-cream, and J. a chunk of fudge. Then we walked across the street to a local espresso shop (Isabella's) where we enjoyed the funky art and signs and L. ordered a coffee.

I., E. & M.

Then it was back to the dinghies. Good thing we decided to walk them up the beach!

What a wonderful day!
Behind the cat, you can just make out the wind-scoop.

Saturday means FARMERS MARKET. We checked it out!

 After being so beastly hot, we were surprised to wake up to a really cool morning. Cool enough we all put on sweaters and coats for the row down the bay and into the Village.

The Farmer's Market was neat. Lots of local food and crafts, etc. Fun to talk to the sellers and it looked like the Farmers Market drew people from as far away as Seattle who had come up on the ferry. The Village was crazy packed with folks.

I., E. & M.

After the market, we walked over to the Museum and enjoyed looking around at the displays. What a great history Lopez has.

After that it was a stop at the Red Apple for M.'s shirt and a few things for dinner and back to MERGANSER.

A piece of statistical information for those who might be interested ... if you're not interested it's ok to skip this section:

MERGANSER has two 40 gallon water tanks for a total of 80 gallons. (We have another water tank under the v-berth that we haven't cleaned out yet, so don't use.) MERGANSER had two 10 gallon fuel tanks, but we removed one during the quarter berth project. Now we just have one 10 gallon tank plus two 5 gallon jerry jugs to give us the same capacity (20 gallons).

So far on the trip we had completely emptied one water tank (aprox. 40 gallons) and just topped up the diesel tank with the last full 5 gallon diesel jug, giving us 10 gallons in the diesel tank. That means:

We have used aprox. 60 gallons of water (we topped up the water tank we were using twice at Sucia with two 5 gallon water jugs each time) and less than 10 gallons of diesel while out. (The diesel tank is 10 gallons. We use it for both the engine [motoring] and for heating/cooking as we run a Dickenson stove. We had filled the 10 gallon tank plus the two 5 gallon jerry jugs [for a total capacity of 20 gallons] a few days prior to leaving.)

But, it meant that we felt safer if we had extra fuel and water. So, after switching water tanks and topping off the diesel tank, M. and J. rowed over to get some more diesel and water. They came back with 10 gallons of each. The water went directly into the empty tank as a reserve. While the water tasted ok at Lopez, we really preferred the Sucia water. So the plan was to refill that tank at Sucia. As we were planning on leaving Sunday afternoon to head back north, we felt this was a safe option.

After dinner J. and L. decide to go for a walk. The kids are in charge on MERGANSER.

We were looking at worshiping with the Lutherans at the Center Church on Lopez. This would allow us to see a different part of Lopez island, and we were curious to see how the Center Church operated. The Catholics have mass there on Saturday evenings and the Lutherans on Sunday mornings. The Lutheran web page said worship was at 11:00 p.m. But how long would it take us to get there?

We rowed over to The Galley dock and commenced walking. An hour later (3 miles?) in the growing dusk we arrived at the Center Church, which is right next to the Lopez cemetery. The walk was delightful. The shoreline where we were anchored reminded us of much of Western Washington, but the center of the island reminded us of Eastern Washington and Northern Idaho: pasture land, cows, wheat/barley fields, timber, and open country. It is a good thing we walked up, too. The Lutheran service started at 9:00 a.m.! Wow! We'd have to get up early tomorrow to get going, but we felt it was worth it.

On the way home, we decided to try a "short cut" that was anything but shorter! So much for returning when we told the kids we would have. Here is an incident to give an idea of how friendly the Lopez Islanders are. We were walking in the now dark with our flashlight on, and cars are moving into the other lane as they approach and pass us. Fairly typical of rural communities everywhere. Then a moped passed and this youthful voice called out "Hhheeelllloooo!" It was great!

We arrived back to MERGANSER foot sore and happy to find the kids had gone to bed. We were not long in getting their ourselves. One of them muttered while half-asleep, "Good. You're back. Took longer than you thought, huh?"


Sunday morning found us up early and preparing to join the Lutherans.
After breakfast we rowed over to The Galley dock and started our walk up to the Center Church. An hour later (and just at 10:50 for the 11:00 service) we arrived, much to the delight and astonishment of the congregation. The pastor had passed us on the road and remarked to herself, "What a nice family. Wouldn't it be great if they joined us for church?"
We had a delightful worship experience, enjoyed coffee hour, and didn't refuse the offer of a ride back down to The Galley.
You Lutherans of Center Church left us with a very pleasant, joyful - no, worshipful - experience as we prepared to leave Lopez. In fact, the feeling of worshipfulness stayed with us all day.

We really like Lopez, and plan to visit again some day.

"Love Is In The Air" hanging just before the turn to the church.